[phyrrus9]

I'm sure everybody has had a rust spot show up on a gun before, most people just wire brush this off, destroying the finish in the process (and not actually stopping the rust).

It's actually not difficult to stop the rust dead in its tracks, get rid of it, and not destroy the finish on the gun.

1. Clean the gun with parts cleaner or starting fluid
   
2. take the parts off that are rusty, you ONLY want metal parts
   
3. boil in regular water (distilled is fine too, but not necessary) for 20-40 minutes
   
4. lightly brush off the loose oxide layer (white/red-white) with extremely fine steel wool that you've soaked in acetone
   
5. soak in kerosene or engine oil over night
   

What's going on here is you're converting Fe2O3 (red rust) to Fe3O4 (black/blue rust). The latter is similar to Aliminium, the oxide layer prevents further oxidation. This process is what's used to blue guns.

With how easy this is, there's no excuse for scrubbing rust off of your guns....

EDIT: side note, this process can be used to rust-proof steel parts that aren't on guns too. However what you'll want to do is use an acid bath and steam to make sure that the rust you form is incredibly fine, then pick up from step 1.

[zorrophreak]

Incredible guide, I have some incredibly older guns that are fine except for some surface rust, so I'll definitely use this to get rid of the rust, I've been waiting because I am worried about messing up the finish.

Thanks

[phyrrus9]

Incredible guide, I have some incredibly older guns that are fine except for some surface rust, so I'll definitely use this to get rid of the rust, I've been waiting because I am worried about messing up the finish.

Thanks

My advice to you if you're gonna do it on antiques, get yourself a piece of steel scrap and rust it so you can test it out. It will come out looking way worse than when you put it in, don't let it discourage you. And step 4 is NOT a scrape off step, I use #00 steel wool. if that won't take it off, boil it longer.

[mothered]

Amazing. So simple, yet It never crossed my mind to apply half of the method.

Correct me If I'm wrong, but I assume this can also be applied to other metal objects.

EDIT: I've just noticed your edit as per below.

this process can be used to rust-proof steel parts that aren't on guns too

[phyrrus9]

Amazing. So simple, yet It never crossed my mind to apply half of the method.

Correct me If I'm wrong, but I assume this can also be applied to other metal objects.

Anything ferrous, yes.

[mothered]

Amazing. So simple, yet It never crossed my mind to apply half of the method.

Correct me If I'm wrong, but I assume this can also be applied to other metal objects.

Anything ferrous, yes.

Damn you're fast to reply.

After noticing your edit, I edited my post above within a minute, but your response was too quick.

[phyrrus9]

Amazing. So simple, yet It never crossed my mind to apply half of the method.

Correct me If I'm wrong, but I assume this can also be applied to other metal objects.

Anything ferrous, yes.

Damn you're fast to reply.

After noticing your edit, I edited my post above within a minute, but your response was too quick.

When I get bored, I just watch the online page

But yeah, if you want to rust-proof a part it's a little different, but if you've got a pair of pliers that are rusty, this process will help keep that at bay.

[Dismas]

Definitely great advice for regular parts, though I'd be hesitant if there's any intricacies (i.e. detailing/engraving). Best thing you can do, is never get rust. I typically oil and clean my blades/firearms after each use and have yet to encounter rust.

[phyrrus9]

Definitely great advice for regular parts, though I'd be hesitant if there's any intricacies (i.e. detailing/engraving). Best thing you can do, is never get rust. I typically oil and clean my blades/firearms after each use and have yet to encounter rust.

Details are typically unharmed, but yeah its always best to just not let it rust in the first place. If, however it does rust, it's better to do this and get a tiny bit of damage vs scrubbing the entire finish off. The damage depends on how fine the rust is. Super fine rust = bluing, super coarse rust = pitting

[mothered]

But yeah, if you want to rust-proof a part it's a little different, but if you've got a pair of pliers that are rusty, this process will help keep that at bay.

I have a number of Items that have rusted over the years, predominantly tools.

I'll definitely apply this method.