[Earth]

I finally decided 100% that I am going to modify my 2003 Dodge Neon SXT. Yes its the 2.0 but oh well everybody has the 2.4 so it will be different.

Anyways I will not be able to hit my goal of 400hp by 2016, probably won't hit 400 at all but I will start out with some simple mods in the upcoming months. I am doing the timing belt, tensioner and water pump around the 3rd as its 40,000 miles past due.

Upcoming mods

Eibach performance springs (1.5" front/rear drop)
Speed Daddy Racing header
Cat Delete
CAI
Weight Reduction
Transmission cooler
Cooling fans upgrade
Mickey Thompson Street Comp Wheels
Cherrybomb Vortex muffler

It won't give me much probably will put me to 150 to 155hp but hey its better then nothing.

Future Mods
Eagle Rods
Forged pistons
Hanh Racecraft turbo
Megasquirt
OBX LSD
Upgraded injectors
Upgraded fuel pump


Future Cosmetics
Fresh paint job
Duraflex Viper body kit

[phyrrus9]

I finally decided 100% that I am going to modify my 2003 Dodge Neon SXT. Yes its the 2.0 but oh well everybody has the 2.4 so it will be different.

Anyways I will not be able to hit my goal of 400hp by 2016, probably won't hit 400 at all but I will start out with some simple mods in the upcoming months. I am doing the timing belt, tensioner and water pump around the 3rd as its 40,000 miles past due.

Upcoming mods

Eibach performance springs (1.5" front/rear drop)
Speed Daddy Racing header
Cat Delete
CAI
Weight Reduction
Transmission cooler
Cooling fans upgrade
Mickey Thompson Street Comp Wheels
Cherrybomb Vortex muffler

It won't give me much probably will put me to 150 to 155hp but hey its better then nothing.

Future Mods
Eagle Rods
Forged pistons
Hanh Racecraft turbo
Megasquirt
OBX LSD
Upgraded injectors
Upgraded fuel pump


Future Cosmetics
Fresh paint job
Duraflex Viper body kit

Alright, let's go down the list....
Eibach performance springs - Don't bother, you aren't going to be able to hold it down anyways. Neon's are extremely top heavy, so unless you replace the steel top with honeycombed aluminum, it will make no difference.

Speed Daddy Racing header - Plan on running a turbo? If you don't, then your unmodified 2.0 won't be pushing enough exhaust out to create the needed backpressure and your performance will actually drop from this. If you do run turbo, then you will want stainless 4-1 headers.

Cat Delete - I wouldn't suggest it, depending on where you live it could be highly illegal. If you do choose this, make sure you wire your downstream post-cat O2 so that you pass emissions checks and ensure you are holding the required backpressure.

CAI - Will only "reclaim" horsepower, not gain it. Even then, the air has to travel through more tubing which will reduce your VE. I would suggest pulling the piece of shit plastic air box out and putting a SRI in instead. The cold air would only give back 0.1-0.5hp anyways, not noticeable, but a SRI will bump your VE by 1-2%, which will reclaim 0.7-1.5hp. Still not a big difference but at least it's running better and will help you if you choose other forced induction mods.

Weight Reduction - ALWAYS. The sad thing is there isn't a lot of it you can do. I always pulled the rear seats from my cars, removed the carpeting and stripped the tar from under them (replacing the carpet is optional, i didn't). Headliner weighs like 5 pounds, remove that. Honeycomb all the non-structural metal in the car, remove the spare tire, etc.

Transmission cooler - Completely useless. Change the gear oil you are using. for a 5 speed I used 90W10, for a 6 you will want 80W15

Cooling fans upgrade - If you have a mechanical fan, replace it with an electric fan, other than that you don't want to change how much they cool your engine.

Mickey Thompson Street Comp Wheels - RICER! no. Use aluminum rims if you don't already have them, low profile tires help with weight reduction (steel belts in tires weigh a lot).

Cherrybomb Vortex muffler - NO! Don't fuck with the exhaust on a stock setup.... My neon never had a muffler (I ran 204hp on a 1997 Neon base model 5 speed), but I could tell I was losing power from it.

---

Eagle Rods - If you plan to bore the engine or stroke it, yes. Otherwise you get 0 gain from them (the stock engine can't snap the rods unless you somehow manage to put it in reverse going 50mph)

Forged pistons - ONLY if you bore over .040mm, other than that, its useless.

Hanh Racecraft turbo - T04E. The neon engines can't handle more than 7psi, any more than that and expect to blow out some valves.

Megasquirt - What the fuck is that? Fuel injectors I assume. If so, don't bother. There is no MAF on a neon, turbo kits will need to be tuned perfectly or use a wet system.

OBX LSD - Useful, but heavy. The only time I have ever had one of these was on my integra, and it was nice to have it, but I couldn't say I was ever happy I had it.

Upgraded injectors - Then I have absolutely no fucking clue what a Megasquirt is.... See what I wrote on that.

Upgraded fuel pump - No need, unless you plan on charging it with N02 (or another chem charger), then the stock one will work better than fine (they can pump fuel in to keep the engine running at 9k, but the air becomes too sparse around 7.5k)

---

Fresh paint job - can always use that Dodge metallic paint
Duraflex Viper body kit - NEVER! DO NOT RICE A CAR LIKE THAT

---

Basically, I would upgrade the clutch (stage 2 is fine, if you want more, stage 3 is high enough for your build), add a small turbocharger (T04E or K08) WITH AN INTERCOOLER!, Cut like 8 inches off of the shifter, neon's were known for having shifters bigger than the average black pornstar's dick, do at least 100lbs of weight reduction (may include removing a passenger seat, be careful not to fuck up the weight ratio), remove the power steering belt (will reclaim 10-12hp, steering will be more racecarlike too), SRI (short ram intake) with a washable filter (not K&N).

Basically, there isn't a whole lot you can even do to it, but don't fuck it up... Make sure you are running water for coolant (unless it is below 35 outside) (water is the best coolant), run a slightly lighter oil (10W20), and remove any components that you don't need (A/C is heavy).

[Earth]

Snip

I already seen results for the header,cai,cat delete, and muffler and it does in fact increase the HP and another person already did a Dyno and hit 152HP, it is not much of an increase but it sure is better then, climate, temperature, etc all plays a factor in HP though.

And a CAI has more benefits then just minor HP increase's.

The car is an Automatic and requires ATF +4 and only ATF +4 anything else will result in failure. Also believe it or not the manual transmissions also require ATF +4.

MegaSquirt is fuel injection and ignition control which is needed with any high HP upgrades on a 03+ Neon which won't be happening now because the Turbo got sold out and I do not feel like fabricating parts to slap a turbo on.

My state does not have emissions laws, nor inspections. I ran straight pipes, no cat, no muffler on my Pontiac Grand Prix and it also did increase HP. There is a lot of myths about back pressure. Less back pressure more HP, but depending on your engine I4 V6, V8 it could result in loss of torque.

I am going for the CherryBomb either way because my factory muffler is rusting out from moisture and I don't want a extremely loud car without one, the vortex is a high flow muffler.

And a body kit does not mean Rice, and trust me I would have no problem to rice me Neon out just to piss people off, plus 5 stickers = 500HP according to rice land.

An external transmission cooler is better then a the factory built in radiator one because you don't have to worry about the chamber failing which it can and has happened before to people causing coolant and transmission fluid to mix therefore deteriorating the internal parts of the transmission. Once it mixes there is not fixing it the transmission will fail even if you drain it, flush it and put fresh fluid in.

I am probably just going to go for a little bit of a HP increase and then setup the suspension for circuit and just have some fun. Don't need a galore of power for a circuit.

And Mickey no longer carries the tires I wanted. So if you have any suggestions for an all season but sport worthy set of tires P185/60R15 for its stock rims let me know.

And holy shit i'm too tired to read all of this.

[phyrrus9]

I already seen results for the header,cai,cat delete, and muffler and it does in fact increase the HP and another person already did a Dyno and hit 152HP, it is not much of an increase but it sure is better then, climate, temperature, etc all plays a factor in HP though.

And a CAI has more benefits then just minor HP increase's.

The car is an Automatic and requires ATF +4 and only ATF +4 anything else will result in failure. Also believe it or not the manual transmissions also require ATF +4.

MegaSquirt is fuel injection and ignition control which is needed with any high HP upgrades on a 03+ Neon which won't be happening now because the Turbo got sold out and I do not feel like fabricating parts to slap a turbo on.

My state does not have emissions laws, nor inspections. I ran straight pipes, no cat, no muffler on my Pontiac Grand Prix and it also did increase HP. There is a lot of myths about back pressure. Less back pressure more HP, but depending on your engine I4 V6, V8 it could result in loss of torque.

I am going for the CherryBomb either way because my factory muffler is rusting out from moisture and I don't want a extremely loud car without one, the vortex is a high flow muffler.

And a body kit does not mean Rice, and trust me I would have no problem to rice me Neon out just to piss people off, plus 5 stickers = 500HP according to rice land.

An external transmission cooler is better then a the factory built in radiator one because you don't have to worry about the chamber failing which it can and has happened before to people causing coolant and transmission fluid to mix therefore deteriorating the internal parts of the transmission. Once it mixes there is not fixing it the transmission will fail even if you drain it, flush it and put fresh fluid in.

I am probably just going to go for a little bit of a HP increase and then setup the suspension for circuit and just have some fun. Don't need a galore of power for a circuit.

And Mickey no longer carries the tires I wanted. So if you have any suggestions for an all season but sport worthy set of tires P185/60R15 for its stock rims let me know.

And holy shit i'm too tired to read all of this.

Alright...do you know ANYTHING about cars? It seems not. I'm a certified mechanic and I have owned my fair share of performance vehicles (fiero, grand prix, integra type r, talon TSI, neon, GTO VR-4).

Let's go through this one by one again and correct your mistakes...

I already seen results for the header,cai,cat delete, and muffler and it does in fact increase the HP and another person already did a Dyno and hit 152HP, it is not much of an increase but it sure is better then, climate, temperature, etc all plays a factor in HP though.

Firstly, it depends 100% on your build. Don't think you can just hacksaw parts off of your car and have it work better (it won't). Secondly, the Dodge Neon comes factory with 150HP. The degrading of the motor mounts can result in that going slightly up as the rubber pads wear out the engine sticks instead of flexing. Your dyno test showed inconclusive results, no gains, no draws with the given information. Also, 152HP is shit. My Integra ITR ran 162HP stock but with the $300 in mods me and my ex wife put on it I was running 438HP.

And a CAI has more benefits then just minor HP increase's.

CAI's lower the temperature of the incomming air, which increases its density and allows you to raise your VE's. The neons came stock with them until 2004. The difference is there is a plastic air filter box in place. Remember, the longer the tube the harder it is to draw air in. It is a vaccuum and usually runs at -.4PSI. Also, link

The car is an Automatic and requires ATF +4 and only ATF +4 anything else will result in failure. Also believe it or not the manual transmissions also require ATF +4.

then your first mod should be to replace that with a manual, automatic transmission and performance are on two separate ends of the spectrum. Also, ATF stands for Automatic Transmission Fluid. Manual transmissions don't use a special transmission fluid, they use gear oil (same stuff you put in your engine).

I am going for the CherryBomb either way because my factory muffler is rusting out from moisture and I don't want a extremely loud car without one, the vortex is a high flow muffler.

And a body kit does not mean Rice, and trust me I would have no problem to rice me Neon out just to piss people off, plus 5 stickers = 500HP according to rice land.

...facepalm....

An external transmission cooler is better then a the factory built in radiator one because you don't have to worry about the chamber failing which it can and has happened before to people causing coolant and transmission fluid to mix therefore deteriorating the internal parts of the transmission. Once it mixes there is not fixing it the transmission will fail even if you drain it, flush it and put fresh fluid in.

uhm.....the chamber? You mean the bell housing? Yeah, there should NEVER be fluid in the bell housing......
Also, coolant and transmission fluid are two SEPARATE systems, they actually have a lot of SOLID parts between them (bell housing, crankshaft, flywheel -- flex plate in your case, and in your case a torque converter -- normally a clutch assembly).
If coolant is mixing with anything on your car it is the oil in your engine (which means you blew your head gasket).
There also is no such thing as a transmission cooler. Well, at least not a legitamite part. I suppose you could put a box fan under your car. News flash, TRANSMISSIONS DON'T GET HEATED UP! Literally transmissions are just gears...
The inside of a standard (manual) transmission looks like this:

I am probably just going to go for a little bit of a HP increase and then setup the suspension for circuit and just have some fun. Don't need a galore of power for a circuit.

The suspension has nothing to do with how much power you produce, it has to do with how your car handles.. When you corner hard on stock suspension, your car rolls to the left or right and wants to flip. On coilovers it wants to stand upright and flexes instead of rolling. But even then, upgrading your suspension past basic coilovers (I love coilovers, but enough is enough) is pointless...It's like having a stage 5 clutch (1200HP+) on a stock 1984 fiero (88HP). Yes, it will work how it is intended, but it will also work exactly the same as a stage 1 clutch in this case.

---

Long story short, I really hope you're just some 16 year old who just got his first car, because you seem to know LESS about cars than anybody I have ever met (and I have seen people try to hold exhaust on with duct tape)

[Earth]

......

Firstly, it depends 100% on your build. Don't think you can just hacksaw parts off of your car and have it work better (it won't). Secondly, the Dodge Neon comes factory with 150HP. The degrading of the motor mounts can result in that going slightly up as the rubber pads wear out the engine sticks instead of flexing. Your dyno test showed inconclusive results, no gains, no draws with the given information. Also, 152HP is shit. My Integra ITR ran 162HP stock but with the $300 in mods me and my ex wife put on it I was running 438HP.

Wrong: They came with 132HP and 150HP non H.O and H.O the H.O was in the R/T and ACR models. And hacking parts of the car wtf are you talking about?.



CAI's lower the temperature of the incomming air, which increases its density and allows you to raise your VE's. The neons came stock with them until 2004. The difference is there is a plastic air filter box in place. Remember, the longer the tube the harder it is to draw air in. It is a vaccuum and usually runs at -.4PSI. Also, link

A air box = less air flow as it has to go through 1 tube, elbow, into the box, through the filter, into another tube*** then into the intake. While the CAI solves some of that.


then your first mod should be to replace that with a manual, automatic transmission and performance are on two separate ends of the spectrum. Also, ATF stands for Automatic Transmission Fluid. Manual transmissions don't use a special transmission fluid, they use gear oil (same stuff you put in your engine).

Automatic and Manual both have there benefits and downsides. And if you knew anything about Neon's you would know straight up the manuals use the same fluid as the automatics. older neons ATF +3, newer Neons ATF +4 look it up.




uhm.....the chamber? You mean the bell housing? Yeah, there should NEVER be fluid in the bell housing......
Also, coolant and transmission fluid are two SEPARATE systems, they actually have a lot of SOLID parts between them (bell housing, crankshaft, flywheel -- flex plate in your case, and in your case a torque converter -- normally a clutch assembly).
If coolant is mixing with anything on your car it is the oil in your engine (which means you blew your head gasket).
There also is no such thing as a transmission cooler. Well, at least not a legitamite part. I suppose you could put a box fan under your car. News flash, TRANSMISSIONS DON'T GET HEATED UP! Literally transmissions are just gears...


Learn to read, the RADIATOR has 2 compartments 1 for coolant, 1 for transmission fluid the radiator cools both. The chamber which seperates the 2 compartments can fail causing it to mix. And if you think there is no such thing as a transmission cooler then you never worked on a car a day in your life. What is the #1 killer of a transmission? heat, what became options on cars since hell probably the 1980s? transmission coolers.

The suspension has nothing to do with how much power you produce, it has to do with how your car handles.. When you corner hard on stock suspension, your car rolls to the left or right and wants to flip. On coilovers it wants to stand upright and flexes instead of rolling. But even then, upgrading your suspension past basic coilovers (I love coilovers, but enough is enough) is pointless...It's like having a stage 5 clutch (1200HP+) on a stock 1984 fiero (88HP). Yes, it will work how it is intended, but it will also work exactly the same as a stage 1 clutch in this case.

I never said the suspension has anything to do with power, it had to do with handling for fucks sakes do you expect to have mastered cornering on a stock touring suspension? hell no.

---

Long story short, I really hope you're just some 16 year old who just got his first car, because you seem to know LESS about cars than anybody I have ever met (and I have seen people try to hold exhaust on with duct tape)

You should look in the mirror buddy.



By the way id love to see that certification? ASE? you can practically get certified with them by eating a cheeseburger in the seat of the car. I started working on cars at a young age like any other boy usually does, I was probaby 8 years old when I started.

---

Oh by the way I am tired, its 5 AM I am going to bed, if you want to carry this subject on then go for it, either reply to the thread or throw me a message. But next time read carefully before you throw bold claims like that up.

I could correct even more mistakes on your post but as I said I am tired.

[phyrrus9]

Firstly, it depends 100% on your build. Don't think you can just hacksaw parts off of your car and have it work better (it won't). Secondly, the Dodge Neon comes factory with 150HP. The degrading of the motor mounts can result in that going slightly up as the rubber pads wear out the engine sticks instead of flexing. Your dyno test showed inconclusive results, no gains, no draws with the given information. Also, 152HP is shit. My Integra ITR ran 162HP stock but with the $300 in mods me and my ex wife put on it I was running 438HP.

Wrong: They came with 132HP and 150HP non H.O and H.O the H.O was in the R/T and ACR models. And hacking parts of the car wtf are you talking about?.



CAI's lower the temperature of the incomming air, which increases its density and allows you to raise your VE's. The neons came stock with them until 2004. The difference is there is a plastic air filter box in place. Remember, the longer the tube the harder it is to draw air in. It is a vaccuum and usually runs at -.4PSI. Also, link

A air box = less air flow as it has to go through 1 tube, elbow, into the box, through the filter, into another tube*** then into the intake. While the CAI solves some of that.


then your first mod should be to replace that with a manual, automatic transmission and performance are on two separate ends of the spectrum. Also, ATF stands for Automatic Transmission Fluid. Manual transmissions don't use a special transmission fluid, they use gear oil (same stuff you put in your engine).

Automatic and Manual both have there benefits and downsides. And if you knew anything about Neon's you would know straight up the manuals use the same fluid as the automatics. older neons ATF +3, newer Neons ATF +4 look it up.




uhm.....the chamber? You mean the bell housing? Yeah, there should NEVER be fluid in the bell housing......
Also, coolant and transmission fluid are two SEPARATE systems, they actually have a lot of SOLID parts between them (bell housing, crankshaft, flywheel -- flex plate in your case, and in your case a torque converter -- normally a clutch assembly).
If coolant is mixing with anything on your car it is the oil in your engine (which means you blew your head gasket).
There also is no such thing as a transmission cooler. Well, at least not a legitamite part. I suppose you could put a box fan under your car. News flash, TRANSMISSIONS DON'T GET HEATED UP! Literally transmissions are just gears...


Learn to read, the RADIATOR has 2 compartments 1 for coolant, 1 for transmission fluid the radiator cools both. The chamber which seperates the 2 compartments can fail causing it to mix. And if you think there is no such thing as a transmission cooler then you never worked on a car a day in your life. What is the #1 killer of a transmission? heat, what became options on cars since hell probably the 1980s? transmission coolers.

The suspension has nothing to do with how much power you produce, it has to do with how your car handles.. When you corner hard on stock suspension, your car rolls to the left or right and wants to flip. On coilovers it wants to stand upright and flexes instead of rolling. But even then, upgrading your suspension past basic coilovers (I love coilovers, but enough is enough) is pointless...It's like having a stage 5 clutch (1200HP+) on a stock 1984 fiero (88HP). Yes, it will work how it is intended, but it will also work exactly the same as a stage 1 clutch in this case.

I never said the suspension has anything to do with power, it had to do with handling for fucks sakes do you expect to have mastered cornering on a stock touring suspension? hell no.

---

Long story short, I really hope you're just some 16 year old who just got his first car, because you seem to know LESS about cars than anybody I have ever met (and I have seen people try to hold exhaust on with duct tape)

You should look in the mirror buddy.



By the way id love to see that certification? ASE? you can practically get certified with them by eating a cheeseburger in the seat of the car. I started working on cars at a young age like any other boy usually does, I was probaby 8 years old when I started.

I am not going through each of them again....

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...Post692804
"ATF+4 is NOT used in the manual transaxles. Mopar Transaxle Lubricant PN 4874465 is the correct fluid."
Let's look up that...
http://www.thebestsyntheticoil.com/gearlube2.htm

hmm....thats syncromesh fluid AKA GEAR OIL..

---

"What is the #1 killer of a transmission? heat"

caused by extensive load placed by the driver (by say, shifting without using the clutch)
transmission cooler: http://www.xtremediesel.com/BD-Power-130...Auvh8P8HAQ
literally a box fan for your car...

"do you expect to have mastered cornering on a stock touring suspension?"
Actually, it all depends on how well you drive. All you just said was that you suck at driving...If you want a good track car I suggest you don't drive a dodge neon....


"By the way id love to see that certification? ASE? you can practically get certified with them by eating a cheeseburger in the seat of the car. I started working on cars at a young age like any other boy usually does, I was probaby 8 years old when I started."

I am ASE MM certified (engines), and no, theres a lot more than a cheeseburger. Here, I found a practice test: http://www.tests.com/practice/ASE-A8-Eng...est-sample

Since you know so much about performance, you should 100% that test no problem.

---

Anywhore, I don't feel like arguing with somebody who knows nothing about cars. I tried to be nice and help you save a few bucks and still get where you needed, but you're just another ricer. BTW, ricers typically drive automatics or miatas/subarus, huge mufflers, gotta have dat spoiler too (which I recently found out makes a good table), and don't know when to admit they are wrong).

Either get this thread BACK on topic (meaning start taking people's advice instead of flaming), delete it, or it will get taken care of for you. I don't want shit on my forum.

[Earth]

.........

I am not going through each of them again....

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...Post692804
"ATF+4 is NOT used in the manual transaxles. Mopar Transaxle Lubricant PN 4874465 is the correct fluid."
Let's look up that...
http://www.thebestsyntheticoil.com/gearlube2.htm

hmm....thats syncromesh fluid AKA GEAR OIL..

You make me laugh for real, ATF +4 is used, and the one dude on that thread was correct it is the same fluid used from the FACTORY. Go to a Dodge dealership and talk to the mechanics there who have been dealing with Dodge all of there life they will say straight up ATF was used, but switching will not hurt, Dodge made it this way for it to be more cost effective.

---

"What is the #1 killer of a transmission? heat"

caused by extensive load placed by the driver (by say, shifting without using the clutch)
transmission cooler: http://www.xtremediesel.com/BD-Power-130...Auvh8P8HAQ
literally a box fan for your car...


HEAT, HEAT, HEAT. Extensive load causes HEAT too which can cause bands to fail as well, HEAT causes transmission fluid to wear down and burn also a dirty filter plays a part of this as well causing premature failure. And you literally just provided a link to an external transmission cooler which is exactly what I was talking about, its very similar to Translife transmission coolers. They do not require nor need the fan. All they are is like a miniature radiator or even big sometimes that goes in front of your existing radiator with the option to install a fan.

"do you expect to have mastered cornering on a stock touring suspension?"
Actually, it all depends on how well you drive. All you just said was that you suck at driving...If you want a good track car I suggest you don't drive a dodge neon....

You don't know me, lets see you run on the track, you probably never did it in your life. And track cars are made to be built, there is no fun in buying a track capable vehicle such as the BRZ or a GTR.



I am ASE MM certified (engines), and no, theres a lot more than a cheeseburger. Here, I found a practice test: http://www.tests.com/practice/ASE-A8-Eng...est-sample

Since you know so much about performance, you should 100% that test no problem.

Sure, will do the test sometime tomorrow and throw you a PM with the results.

---

Anywhore, I don't feel like arguing with somebody who knows nothing about cars. I tried to be nice and help you save a few bucks and still get where you needed, but you're just another ricer. BTW, ricers typically drive automatics or miatas/subarus, huge mufflers, gotta have dat spoiler too (which I recently found out makes a good table), and don't know when to admit they are wrong).

Miata's are actually pretty good cars, and Subaru's are rally cars, RICE = Race inspired cosmetic enhancements. A spoiler does not make it rice, spoilers have uses and benefits, a muffler does not make it rice neither. Is a Semi rice because it has a HUGE muffler?.

And you tried to be nice? you are the one who threw it into an argument making false claims.

Either get this thread BACK on topic (meaning start taking people's advice instead of flaming), delete it, or it will get taken care of for you. I don't want shit on my forum.

Your forum? this is Oni's forum not your's, you just added even more on to your FALSE claims.

And I will admit you gave some decent advice but it still does not end the fact that you made some bogus claims.

But please be my guest mr owner, have the thread deleted, you just want to hide your awful claims and lack of knowledge.

[phyrrus9]

Your forum? this is Oni's forum not your's, you just added even more on to your FALSE claims.

It isn't one man's forum. It is a community. This is my forum, this is your forum, this is all of our forum. But since I am clearly not wanted here, that's fine. @Oni I'm out. Apparently I'm a dumb sack of shit. I just can't handle the fact that this place is just one HUGE flaming arena.

Do what you want with your car. It's YOUR car. If you didn't like my advice, you simply had to state that you didn't like it/don't wish to follow it (though the better option is to ignore input that doesn't satisfy your needs).

Enjoy your stay here at SL, I sure as fuck haven't.

[Earth]

It isn't one man's forum. It is a community. This is my forum, this is your forum, this is all of our forum. But since I am clearly not wanted here, that's fine. @Oni I'm out. Apparently I'm a dumb sack of shit. I just can't handle the fact that this place is just one HUGE flaming arena.

Do what you want with your car. It's YOUR car. If you didn't like my advice, you simply had to state that you didn't like it/don't wish to follow it (though the better option is to ignore input that doesn't satisfy your needs).

Enjoy your stay here at SL, I sure as fuck haven't.

Oh so now you think leaving the forum is going to solve this issue? I hate to break it to you but the world is full of drama, arguments, disagreements, dislikes, hates, etc and there is no avoiding it.

And my username may be Fire but I was not flaming you, I was giving my end of the disagreement.

And as I said you gave some good advice, but there was some false claims and some mis-reading.

And I have been enjoying my stay even though that has been some bad run-ins with other members. But you don't see that stopping me from being here.

But whatever, do what you want you are your own person, if I am the cause of your decision then I will leave because trust me I am used to leaving forums. Read my introduction and you will see just that.

[Nyx]

This thread has turned into pure autism. Literally people just need to learn to talk to each other as equal humans, instead of trying to be a bigger person in the situation.